From an Idlewild aperitivo to a homegrown Healdsburg cellar tasting, three bold winemakers showcase the heart—and future—of California’s wine and hospitality scene.
There are wine tastings—and then there are moments. The kind that unfold slowly under the golden light of a Healdsburg afternoon, with a glass of something bright and mineral in hand, surrounded by vintners whose stories are as layered as the wines they pour.
My recent experience with Dan Petroski of Massican Wines and Sam Bilbro of Idlewild Wines and Chef Dustin Valette wasn’t just a Healdsburg wine tasting—it was a rare invitation into the intimate, delicious heart of California winemaking. From an Italian-inspired aperitivo to a cellar tasting beneath Dustin’s home, it was a journey through Sonoma’s soul—guided by three of the region’s most thoughtful and talented makers.
We began at Idlewild Wines’ tasting room in Healdsburg Square, where Sam Bilbro hosted an Italian-inspired aperitivo hour. Known for his commitment to Piedmontese varietals like Dolcetto, Arneis, and Nebbiolo, Bilbro poured chilled rosato and his signature vermouth while guests nibbled on prosciutto, marinated artichokes, and aged cheeses. It was a masterclass in casual elegance and authentic wine hospitality—less about fanfare, more about feeling.
The evening deepened as a few fortunate guests and wandering writers were ushered into a cellar tucked beneath the home of Chef Dustin Valette—a space where wine, food, and storytelling are inextricably linked. Dustin greeted us with the warmth of someone welcoming old friends, pouring wines crafted under his Valette Wines label and sharing the roots of his culinary and winemaking philosophy.
He spoke of the moment the idea for Valette Restaurant was born—over a glass of wine with his brother Aaron Garzini, seated on their father’s porch overlooking the Alexander Valley. Dustin, fresh from the kitchens of New York and steeped in Sonoma County heritage, had returned home with a singular vision: to build something enduring. In 2015, that vision came to life just blocks from his home in downtown Healdsburg.
The wines we tasted in his cellar were intimate reflections of that vision. Each bottle told a story—of soil, season, and intention. A Pinot Noir, delicate yet assured. A white Rhône blend, all orchard bloom and stony elegance. And a Syrah that hummed with savory complexity. As Dustin guided us through each glass, he wove in tales of winemaking and cooking, of land stewardship and family, of what it means to craft something soulful and true.
When we finally stepped out into the Healdsburg night, the town aglow and the redwoods casting long shadows, I realized the real takeaway wasn’t just what we drank—but how we felt. The experience lingered like a finish: crisp with citrus, textured with almond, warm with connection.
If you’re headed to Sonoma, seek the makers who spill secrets as readily as they pour their wine.
Savor the sips, they pair beautifully with Sonoma’s stories.
